Below is an Interactive Google Map to find your Zone and your Irrigation Schedule.

Locate your house by either searching the address or zooming to your house. 

Click on your house and a window will appear with your Zone and Irrigation Schedule.

 

 

 

 

As with any component of a home, your irrigation system needs regular maintenance.

 

Since we use well water, you need to clean your filter often (if you have one) and your electric valves on a consistent basis.

Occasionally, rotors and sprays will need replacing as well. If you are not skilled at doing this yourself, you will need to hire an irrigation contractor.

 

 

 

 

 

Proper timer programming is crucial to the functionality of the system and it is your responsibility to make sure your timers are set correctly. The clock/timer that you have in your garage is intended to facilitate the opening of your irrigation system on your Lot to the sub main during the specified hour that the timer is set for. This time should coincide with the time that the irrigation zone you live in runs.

Over-watering your lawn is not only wasteful, but it can lead to diseased turf and growth of fungi. The system is equipped with turf-saturation sensors or rain sensors which will prevent the irrigation from being activated if the ground is saturated to a certain point. A ½ an inch of rain or more activates the system’s rain sensors. Do not over-compensate for a missed irrigation cycle by running multiple zones at once. This abuse of the system could cause you to lose your watering privileges or pay a fine.

Remember, the HOA is only responsible for getting water to your curb. Anything beyond the curb, including timers, sprinkler heads, line leaks, etc. is the responsibility of the homeowner (excluding Townhome Owners).

 

If you are unfamiliar with how to work an Irrigation System, there are irrigation contractors you can hire to maintain and repair your system.

 

Here is a link to the Irrigation Contractors who are licensed in North Carolina - www.nciclb.org

Per the contract with the Master Association, Terra Green is not allowed to work on Homeowner irrigation systems.

 

 

 

 

 

If you need to inspect your system, you can request a Test Activation, where the system in your yard will be pressurized during the day so you (or your irrigation contractor), and inspect the system and make the necessary repairs.

 

If you have any troubles with the form below - Click here to go to the Form

 

If you have an issue with not receiving irrigation in your Zone, and believe there is an issue with the Master System, please complete the below form.

 

 

It’s that time of year again. The leaves are starting to fall and temperatures are starting to drop. This also means its time to shut down our irrigation system and winterize to avoid damage caused by freezing temperatures. Taking the necessary steps for protecting our irrigation system now, will avoid costly repairs in the springtime.

 

First there are some claims of irrigation systems being self-draining. This might be true; however is it worth the gamble? Drains can get clogged or left un-opened, water can be trapped in low spots; the list goes on and on. For the added safety and fairly low cost of winterizing with an air compressor, it's not worth the gamble. Blowing out your irrigation system with an air compressor has been proven to be the best method being used today.

This article outlines the procedures for winterizing a typical system. Obviously, throughout the country the products and scenarios may be different, but generally the sequence of procedures is usually the same.

 

There are two possibilities of water source for your home. If you have a backflow installed, you are using city water (very few Moss Creek residents have this option) or you run your system on the Community well water.

 

First and foremost, wait until the Community Irrigation Specialist has turned off the Community system for the season. We plan to shut the system down on Saturday October 31st, weather permitting assuming we do not have a late streak of high temperatures.

 

For residents on backflow only, you will manually drain the system (as much as you can). This will alleviate the pressure off the system and give us a head start on the winterizing process. Warning, you might get wet. Opening a drain under pressure will shoot water out for the first few seconds, until the pressure locked in the system dies down. Once the pressure has been bled from the system and the water has drained down a little, its time to hook up the compressor. If you use the Community system, draining the lines of your system is not an option.

 

Next, you will have to hook up the air compressor at the source of your water, be it the backflow or the ball valve for those using regular Community Irrigation. There has to be a point of connection. If there is not one there, one must be installed. If you have ever winterized your system, you will have this point of connection. Sometimes we have to use a little ingenuity to make up a fitting to attach from the air hose to the drain. It's usually never a standard fitting (unless you’re really lucky).

 

Prior to hooking up the air hose to the irrigation system, let the air compressor charge itself. Usually, most compressors can charge up to 120 PSI or more. However, we do not need that much pressure to blow out our system. Actually, never blow out an irrigation system with more than 80 PSI Max. Be warned, anything over 80 PSI can damage the components of the irrigation system. Actually, it is best to keep the air pressure around 60 PSI. This will avoid any risks of using too much pressure.

 

Now hook up the compressor and start winterizing. Its best to start with the furthest zone first and work your way back to the nearest zone. Or start on the zone at the highest elevation point, usually on top of a berm or hill. Say zone number 4 is the furthest away zone. You will turn zone number 4 on at the controller for 2 minutes and let it go. Now, 2 minutes might be too long or not long enough. Watch the water as it comes out of the sprinkler heads. Slowly the water will turn into a mist. Then the mist will turn into air. At this point all the air is out of zone number 4. Turn off zone number 4 and continue on to the next zone.

 

Please note, usually you do not have to get every single drop of water out of the system. If you continue to blow out the system even though all the water is out, the heat from the air could damage the components of the irrigation system. It’s better to get the majority of water out, but not continuously run the compressor trying to strive to get every drop of water. A little residual water left in the zone will not hurt. It is recommended to blow out each zone twice with two short cycles as opposed to blowing out each zone once with a long cycle. This leaves less of a margin for error and eliminates the chance of leaving the compressor on too long.

 

The compressor size needed depends on the system size. Usually bigger is better (and faster) but a smaller compressor can work though it might take a little longer. The recommended size compressor should be able to deliver a MINIMUM of 60 PSI at 15 CFM's (cubic feet per minute). This is what actually displaces the water. Most compressors will not have a problem delivering the PSI, but it's the CFM they may lack.

 

If you have a backflow system, check the backflow preventor. These systems have a backflow prevention device installed at the beginning of the system to keep dirty water from flowing back into the clean city water pipeline. Make sure it's completely void of water. Open all the drains and leave them open. Over the winter, it's best to leave the ball valves (what most moss Creek residents have) or drains (on the backflow preventor) at a 45-degree angle. Sometimes condensation can build up inside the ball valve, thus cracking it when the temperature drops below the freezing point. Leaving the ball valves at a 45-degree angle will help prevent this.

 

The average residential system should take about 30 to 45 minutes. But again, this all depends on the compressor size and the irrigation system size. Obviously, there are many more scenarios that can add to the winterization process. However, this article covers the general process. Remember, "An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure". This definitely applies to winterizing an irrigation system. Knowing that in the springtime your system will start and operate without any headaches is definitely worth the effort of preventative measures.

 

Johndeerelandscapes.com

Did you receive an Irrigation Shut Off Notice?

 

There are 2 main reasons you would receive this type of notice:

 

A leaking or broken irrigation head can cause an extreme waste of water if not fixed in a timely manner. 

This also will reduce the pressure in the irrigation line, causing other homes down the line to not receive enough pressure to water their lawn. 

As the resident, you are responsible for repairing the irrigation system on your property. 

Once you have repaired the leaking/broken head, you will then need to email MossCreek@Kuester.com 

The Irrigation Contractor will pressurize the system to confirm the repair has been completed, and then will re-establish the irrigation connection to your irrigation lines.

 

 

 

(Q): What time is my system supposed to turn on?

(A): Each home is located on a block. Your block has a time associated with it. There is a schedule on the website. Correspond your street with the correct block and you have your time.

 

 

(Q): How long is my system supposed to run?

(A): Each home has a (1) hour window of water. Please set your controller to run each station in a manner utilizing this hour. Please remember, some zones may need a few more minutes of water depending on the condition of the turf.

 

 

(Q): How many days does my system run per week?

(A): You get (3) days per (7) days a week.

 

 

(Q): Can I change the time my system comes on?

(A): Unfortunately not. The fact is this system is so large and complex; it has to be broken down in blocks to utilize the pressure and water conservation. We have it set up to water late in the day until early morning for the homeowners. This in turn keeps the evaporation rate down in order to maximize the impact of the (1) hour window

 

 

(Q): Doesn’t watering at night cause diseases in the turf?

(A): It certainly can if over watered. With (3) hours a week, the turf should be fine and disease free. However, we cannot guarantee a disease free turf. If you feel a disease is present, there are contact fungicides that can be purchased over the counter at Lowe’s or Home Depot.

 

 

(Q): Who is responsible for the maintenance and upkeep of my irrigation system?

(A): You are. There are Irrigation companies that will do winterization and Spring start-ups if you decide that’s what you want. We also recommend having someone go through your system at least once per year to make sure it is operating correctly.

 

 

(Q): What is the HOA’s responsibility concerning our irrigation system?

(A): Our responsibility is to make sure the homeowner gets water to the curb line.

 

 

(Q): Can I get a hook up for City water to my irrigation system?

(A): Yes. It requires a City permit and a backflow. Both can be done by an Irrigation contractor. You will be billed separately and will still have to pay the same amount in association dues.

 

 

(Q): Who do I contact concerning issues with the Master irrigation system?

(A): If you feel there is a problem with the master system, you can complete the Irrigation Maintenance Request form.

 

 

(Q): My system did not turn on last night, why?

(A): Could be several reasons, among them:

• Clock not set properly. Make sure your clock is set to the correct am or pm, the correct date and time and correct master schedule.
• Valve closed at the street. This should never be unless maintenance is being done on the valve by the HOA or if you have been notified of an irrigation issue on your individual lot that is wasting water.
• Work is being completed on the main line.(There will be updates on the Association webpage when these repairs are being done.)
• Did it rain in the past 24 hours? Moss Creek has rain sensors, and if there is rainfall of .25" or more, the system will shut down for 24 hours to protect the turf from overwatering.

 

 

(Q): My neighbor’s system watered and mine did not, why?

(A): See above. Also, your neighbor across the street could be on a different schedule depending on location.